Guide to Caravaggio’s Artworks in Rome
Caravaggio: mad, bad, dangerous – and one of the world’s greatest artists.
Discover the Best of Caravaggio
Find the Great Master’s masterpieces in the Eternal City
Caravaggio set the world of 17th century Rome alight.
The Complete Guide to Caravaggio’s Masterpieces in Rome
Mad, bad and dangerous to know: Caravaggio is the original damned artist as the anti-hero.
Caravaggio set the world of early 17th century Rome alight with his revolutionary paintings. For the first time ever, workers and prostitutes were put into religious scenes – to the outrage of many of the city’s tastemakers.
Although somewhat maligned by conventional opinion, Caravaggio’s evident genius entranced some of the most important people in Roman society. He went on to great success, portraying religious scenes in shocking new ways, in the city’s churches.
That is until he was exiled – for murdering a rival in love after a ‘friendly’ game of tennis.
So who is this astonishing genius, and where did he paint? Read on and we’ll tell you where you can find Caravaggio’s best works in Rome. Not only that, but we’ll tell you more about bold Caravaggio, mad, bad, dangerous – and one of the greatest artists of all time.
Caravaggio’s evident genius entranced some of the most important people in Roman society.
Who Was Caravaggio?
Caravaggio was born a certain Michelangelo Merisi, but came to be known as Michelangelo da Caravaggio – perhaps because the mononym Michelangelo was taken (and we all know who by). In Italian, ‘da’ means ‘of’, so like a certain Leonardo before him, Michelangelo Merisi bears the name of the town from which he came.
When a young Caravaggio arrived in Rome in 1592, his reputation proceeded him. Rumors surrounded this young, bisexual artist – he was already known for his passion and his genius. Caravaggio only cemented his reputation further during his time in Rome. Most of the biographical information we have comes not from Rome’s art critics or high-society patrons, but from the records of the city’s police.
Caravaggio’s life of crime could initially be dismissed as ‘boys will be boys’ antics – the young artist was only 21 when he arrived in the Eternal City. He crops in police records for his proclivity for street brawls and, more reprehensibly, throwing a plate of artichokes at an unsuspecting waiter.
When a young Caravaggio arrived in Rome in 1592, his reputation proceeded him.
However, his violent tendencies really culminated when he murdered an opponent after a friendly tennis match. His opponent was not only his rival on the court – it seems that this gentleman had been done some harm to a favored prostitute of Caravaggio’s. It seems Caravaggio did not intend to kill the man – he only wanted to castrate him. Caravaggio’s aim was a little off and so he didn’t claim the man’s member; instead, he pierced the fellow’s main artery in the thigh, and so his rival in love died. Unfortunately for all his defenders, this act of gruesome murder was one step too far for Rome’s art-loving authorities, and despite his genius, Caravaggio was banished.
As well as death and destruction, Caravaggio left some truly remarkable masterpieces in his wake. His trademark chiarascuro effect entranced the Roman public, who wanted a new aesthetic which matched the darkness and volatility of the times. Although Caravaggio may have shocked Rome’s conservative class, the city’s art lover adored him. Although eventually pardoned, Caravaggio never returned to Rome. He died in a sword fight in Malta, before he reached his 40th birthday.
As well as death and destruction, Caravaggio left some truly remarkable masterpieces in his wake.
Santa Maria del Popolo
Within one of Rome’s most vibrant squares, Piazza del Popolo is the beautiful Santa Maria del Popolo. Expect to find two spectacular works by Caravaggio in the Cerasi Chapel. Admire the beautiful Crucifixion of St Peter (1600) and its partner piece, Conversion on the Way to Damascus (1601).
These paintings show two Christian saints at completely different stages of their life. A young Paul, overcome with a sudden knowledge of the Christian message, bathed in divine light, and St Peter’s martyrdom. Admire how the Great Master contrasts youth and age, glory and decay, all with his trademark use of chiaroscuro.
Rumors surrounded the young, bisexual artist – already known for his passion and his genius.
San Luigi dei Francesi
Caravaggio liked to drink near where he painted, and both San Luigi dei Francesi and Sant’Agostino are near his old haunts. San Luigi dei Francesi contains perhaps the greatest series of works Caravaggio ever produced: the St Matthew series.
The St Matthew series shows all the stages of the Christian life of St Matthew. The Calling of St Matthew (1600) shows the moment when Christ calls Matthew to follow him. The action looks like it’s set in a 17th-century tavern populated by never-do-wells; a typically Caravaggesque show of realism.
One of Caravaggio’s most famous works, The Inspiration of St Matthew (1602), can also be found in San Luigi dei Francesi. A young angel – with a face that all of Caravaggio’s beautiful young boys share – is revealing the divine testament to Matthew.
Finally, the most action-packed of all the pieces is the third part of the triptych. In the Martyrdom of St Matthew (1600), you’ll find the old saint being swarmed by young, nude men ready to kill him. Although in the Bible, this episode was said to occur at a wedding, here it occurs in a bathhouse – the infamously bisexual Caravaggio must have had his reasons for putting beautiful, naked young men front and center. Our Restoring Caravaggio tour takes you to San Luigi dei Francesi and reveals the secrets behind this masterpiece, and those in Sant Agostino.
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Caravaggio scandalized church officials and public opinion with his dark-haired, barefoot Mary.
Basilica of Sant’Agostino
In Sant’Agostino you’ll find the beautiful Madonna of Loreto (1606). Here, Caravaggio scandalized church officials and public opinion with his dark-haired, barefoot Mary (who may, or may not be a prostitute).
On our Restoring Caravaggio tour, not only will you hear the secrets behind this beautiful Mary’s appearance, but you’ll also go behind-closed-doors and see the Restoration Lab where this masterpiece was restored. Learn how this impressive all-female art restoration lab conducted an unusual publicly viewable restoration in Sant’Agostino for 3 years. Learn how difficult it is to restore a masterpiece of this caliber – and see the artists in action on other Renaissance wonders today.
Youth with a Ram (1602) is the darkest, sensual and atmospheric Baroque work in the Museums.
Capitoline Museum
Walk into the room with Caravaggio’s John the Baptist, Youth with a Ram (1602) in the Capitoline Museum, and you’ll know about it. This painting demands to be looked at – it is, by far, the darkest, sensual and atmospheric Baroque work in the Museums.
To a modern eye, the eroticism that overwhelms this painting is uncomfortable. A very young John the Baptist is arching toward a ram he’s embracing, shooting come-and-get-me eyes at the viewer. Caravaggio’s divine light illuminates the delicate nudity of this young man’s body, just entering muscularity. It’s impossible to avoid the overtones of the ram as a symbol both of licentiousness and Christianity.
Next to John the Baptist, Youth with a Ram is another Caravaggio work: The Fortune Teller (1594). But trust us, you won’t be looking at it – everyone is wholly enraptured by this sensual John the Baptist.
Caravaggio portrayed religious scenes in shocking new ways.
The Vatican Museums
The Entombment of Christ (1603) begins at a moment of dramatic action. Christ’s followers are carrying Jesus taken down from the Cross, toward his tomb. Unlike other scenes of Christ in death, this one is remarkably realized. This Jesus is not the Son of God; he is a heavy corpse, which robust men are attempting to handle with care – you can see how they buckle and bend under his weight.
Most group tours of the Vatican miss the remarkable Entombment of Christ – there are just so many other wonders in that small state. However, if you choose a private tour of Vatican City and want to see The Entombment of Christ, we’ll make sure your guide accommodates that for you in your itinerary.
With half a dozen paintings, the Borghese gallery has the most exquisite Caravaggio’s per square meter in Rome.
Galleria Borghese
Rome’s Borghese Gallery isn’t lacking in wonders. Some of the most spectacular Baroque masterpieces can be found here – including remarkable works by Bernini, like Apollo and Daphne and his David.
It’s also home to more Caravaggio’s per square meter than anywhere else in the city. Rome’s Borghese Gallery promises 6 Caravaggio’s – when they’re not being lent to American galleries, due to a reciprocal sharing arrangement.
With half a dozen paintings, this gallery has the most exquisite Caravaggio’s per square meter in Rome. Many of them caused outrage when first exhibited, including the beautiful Madonna of the Palafrenieri (1605). Madonna of the Palafrenieri was removed from the Church it was housed in, either because of the portrayal of St. Ann as a wrinkled old lady, Madonna’s bursting bodice or Jesus’ uncircumcised nudity.
Want to see these, and other treasures, like Caravaggio’s Boy with a Basket of Fruit? Choose a private tour of the Borghese Gallery.
If you want to see the best of Caravaggio in Rome, now you know how to do it.
See the Best of Caravaggio in Rome
There you have it. If you want to see the best of Caravaggio in Rome, now you know how to do it. Admire amazing artworks at the Borghese Gallery, go behind-closed-doors to see how master restorers worked their magic in Sant’Agostino, or climb the Campidoglio to see Caravaggio’s sensual John the Baptist. There’s an experience of Caravaggio for everyone, in the Eternal City.
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